1. What fluid should I use in my Tremec TKO and Tremec Magnum 5 speed?
The preferred fluid is the Tremec HP MTF fluid the TKO takes approximately 2.5 quarts and the Magnum holds approximately 3.5 quarts. You can also use Pennzoil synchromesh if you choose.
2. Components of your Tremec TKO 500 and TKO 600
Components of your Tremec Magnum 6 speed
3. What is the Break-In Period for a Tremec Transmission?
Break-in period your Tremec transmission has a break period of about 750 miles of responsible driving. You do not have to baby it but done take it to the drag strip or do 4000 RPM launches. It is fine for your fluid to have a shimmer to it do not be alarmed.
4. How do I measure my driveshaft?
The measurement is known as "seal to center" and is the distance between the case of the transmission next to the rear seal and the centerline of the pinion yoke. When ordering a driveshaft fill the form out and send the completed form to firstname.lastname@example.org. How to measure the driveshaft and determine your rear universal joint size is demonstrated on the form. For late model Mustangs, a second page is provided to determine your rear flange size.
5. How do I Dial Indicating my bell housing?
Tremec transmissions use a tightly tolerated caged tapered roller bearing to support the input shaft. These bearings are far superior to the ball bearing assemblies of older transmissions; however, their exacting specifications make them prone to side loading. Improper centering of the transmission to the crank can cause premature wear on the input shaft bearings, creating noise, vibration and the eventual failure of internal parts of the transmission. Completing this step will help ensure your transmission will shift and perform as it should.
Here is what you will need.
- A magnetic base dial indicator with a .001” resolution (.0005” preferred)
- Large ratchet handle, breaker bar or flywheel tool to turn crank
- Appropriate tools for tightening bell housing bolts
How to do it
- With the flywheel installed, place the bell housing on the back of the engine and fasten with at least four bolts, ensuring that the bell is seated against the block.
- Place magnetic indicator on the flywheel (or crank hub if the flywheel is not installed). Set the measuring finger on the inside of the bore of the bell housing (see photo) at the 12-o’clock position.
- Zero the indicator dial at 12 o’clock. With a permanent black marker, mark a zero on the back of the bell at 12 o’clock.
- Turn the crank until the measuring finger is at the 3 o’clock position. Record the measurement with the marker. Make sure you record if the result is positive (to the right of zero) or negative (to the left of zero).
- Repeat step four at 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions, recording your results. Then return the indicator to 12 o’clock and make sure it measures zero. If the indicator does not measure zero at 12 o’clock then the base has moved during the procedure and you will have to repeat steps 3 through 5.
How to interpret the numbers:
The acceptable tolerances for Tremec transmissions is .005” of total runout. The following formula will tell you how much runout you have.
Reading at 12 o’clock – Reading at 6 o’clock = Vertical Axis Run Out
Reading at 3 o’clock – Reading at 9 o’clock = Horizontal Axis Run Out
- 12 o’clock = 0
6 o’clock = -.004
Then your Vertical Runout is 0 - -.004 = .004” (within tolerance)
- 3 o’clock = .009”
9 o’clock = .006”
Then your Horizontal Runout is .009 - .006 = .003” (within tolerance)
- 3 o’clock = -.008
9 o’clock = .013
Then your Horizontal Runout is -.008 - .013 = .021” (.016” out of tolerance)
What the numbers mean:
- If you are out of tolerance (> .005” +/-) on only one axis, then you will correct directly along that axis. The vertical axis will be corrected by a direct north or south movement of the bell housing, the horizontal by a direct east or west movement.
- If you are out of tolerance on both axes, then you will be correcting along a diagonal. For example, if you’re bell housing is sitting .008” to the south (down) and .009” to the east (right) of center then you will correct toward the northwest to move the bellhousing up and to the left.
If your two axis measurements are less than .005”, as shown in example one and two, then your bell housing is within tolerance and you can proceed to install your transmission.
If the number is greater than .005” (+/-) then you must use the following procedure to correct the runout.
- Remove indicator and bell housing and set aside for later use.
- Remove dowel pins using one of the following methods:
- Some engines have punch holes behind the pins. If you have this style of engine you can simply use a punch and a hammer to remove the old pins.
- Grasp with vise style pliers and slowly turn pin while pulling away from the block.
- Weld a steel nut to the end of the pin and twist assembly out with a wrench or vise style pliers.
- Our favorite method for removing ornery pins involves the use of an aerosol spray freezing agent available at most parts stores. Simply place vice style pliers on the pin, heat the block around the pin area, spray the pin with the freezing agent and pull. The pin will shrink away from the heated block and usually come away very easily.
- Once the dowel pins are removed you will need to install “offset” dowel pins in the block. Offset dowel pins come in .007”, .014” and .021” sizes and correct for twice their value. Therefore, a .007” dowel pin will correct for as much as .014” of total runout. These pins are available from us, or from your local speed shop or racing supply retailer.
- Remove the dowel pins from their package and using the permanent marker or bright nail polish, mark the high side of each pin. This will help you align the pins when you press them into the block.